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Magnetising - a sticky solution

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Almost exactly a year ago I finished up my mini Tau force, you can see them all together here:  Operation House Party.  I haven't done anything with them but about a week ago there was a chat amongst our local Nerd Herd (TM) about how to magnetise the weapons on Battlesuits and since I've been magnetising pretty much everything for as long as I've been hobbying we thought it would make a useful post here. This post assumes you have a drill/pin vice suitable for the task, and are familiar with its use.

Before I get onto the specifics of Battlesuits, I thought I'd point out the most important aspect in magnetising: polarity.  Get this right and ultimately anything you magnetise will be compatible with any other item you've magnetised.  This has lead to me being extremely silly and onetime had a Terminator running around with the arms from an old box Dreadnought - definitely not narrative and sadly not recorded in an image.



These little beauties aren't some horrifying ear-wax candle as sold on Goop, but in fact my magnet applicators.  Little dollops of Milliput and buried under years of residual superglue at the thin end are some little 2mm magnets such that they will attract each other if placed end to end.


On the back here you can see I've labelled them B (body) and W (weapon).  Now that I'm no longer paid to stare wistfully into the night sky but rather terminate cancer with extreme prejudice and so spend far too long looking at medical scans, I'd use proximal and distal.   The idea is that the magnet going into the part closest to the body of the model is placed with the B applicator (proximal), and the magnet going into the part closest to a weapon is placed using the W applicator (distal).  

This way, you could have a chain of items magnetised and you could add or remove items and they would always match polarity, future proofing your work.

( # the gun magnet connects to the hand magnet, 
  # the hand magnet connects to the arm magnet, 
  # the arm magnet connects to the shoulder magnet,
  # dem bits, dem bit, dem magnet bits
  # they're all gonna connect together ) 
(c)  The Delta Rythm Boys - Dry Bones


Anyway, after this ridiculously long pre-amble, on to the meat and potatoes of the post and how I magnetised my Battlesuits.



In the image above, I've tried to highlight where the magnets are placed with the green circle and square.  If you look into the green square, you can see the rectangular "peg" on the side of the weapon that fits into arm to locate it on the model.  You can also see on the top of the weapon, and in the circle on the burst cannon, that I removed half of that peg, and then drilled for a 3 mm magnet in place of that removed part of the peg.

The images below of the Battlesuit shows the corresponding points on the arms and jump pack where I have placed a magnet into half of the slot into which the peg would be inserted.  Doing it this way means that while the magnets hold the weapon attached to the arm, the original peg and slot is still locating the weapon correctly to the model and also prevents it from spinning around.

  

... and finally you can see it all together


You can also apply a similar principle to Riptides as well

 

I'm sure there are ways for the other suits as well but I don't own any of them so can't really comment.

Ultimately, the things to remember are to try at all costs to keep your polarity constant throughout so that you can mix and match, and to keep as much as you can of the original locater pegs and slots so that the weapons will naturally sit where they are supposed to and are just being held in place by the magnets instead of glue.

Hopefully all that's clear, and it'll help anyone struggling with magnets to get a bit of a start.  If you've got any more tips for this, drop them in the comments below and I'm not averse to updating this post to include even more good advice.

Laters,
Andy

Modular Urban Board Project Log 2

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Well bugger me if painting the Sanctum Administratus kit hasn't given me an existential crisis. I've now finished one of the intact building halves, and have been second-guessing myself all the way through.

Normally with terrain I'd say you want to avoid picking out too many of the details, since painting them would a) take ages and b) create a lot of visual noise for your armies to disappear into, rather than being a pleasing backdrop. With the Sector Imperialis stuff you can get away with that minimalist approach, but I'm not convinced that minimalism works on the altogether more industrial (and pithily named) Battlezone Manufactorum: Sanctum Administratus.

I've followed through on the test panel I did in the last post, hoping to create something that could work as either dilapidated Imperial infrastructure or pure underhive despair. Here's how it turned out:


Somehow this looks simultaneously too pristine and too old and busted, and takes a long time to do relative to my usual terrain efforts. Pour one out for the Bunker crew; they've been subjected to my incessant whining on the subject. Normally this is the bit of the post where I'd tell you how I got this result, but I'm not entirely convinced people will want to mimic this. If you do want the paint recipe, let me know in the comments and I'll be sure to include it in the next log.

As you will have gathered from the image above, I couldn't resist the temptation to amateurishly attempt some atmospheric shots in addition to the more standard ones. There's honestly not much else to say for this week, so I'll leave you with some pictures:






Modular Urban Board Project Log 3: painting the Sanctum Administratus

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The the last log entry I was umming and erring about the colour scheme for the Sanctum Administratus. In this week's log, which should probably be titled "things I managed to do in between long stretches of Mass Effect: Legendary Edition," I've painted a second intact building segment. In and of itself that isn't exactly newsworthy, so I'll go the extra mile and provide the step-by-step paint recipes.

Am I 100% sold on this scheme? No. It simultaneously needs more and less detail, and by the measure of my usual terrain painting, it's not that quick either. So why am I giving you a recipe for it? Well, largely, in case there are individual elements of it that you like, and want to steal.


Rattle Cans
I spray primed with Mechanicus Standard Grey, then did a patchy semi-zenithal spray of Zandri Dust. This is going to get mostly hidden by the basecoat stage, but serves to provide some subliminal tonal variation that doesn't show up much in the photos and helps knock it off being a flat colour. TBH, though, you could just spray prime with Wraithbone and skip the basecoat stage if you were feeling lazy. The end result would look more plastic-y but you'd save time and money.

Sloppitty basecoat
The basecoat is actually a heavy, wet overbrush of a creamish whiteish emulsion paint. You could use any creamy off-white, and acrylic is probably your best bet since it'll be easier to work with, but it's just what I had to hand. Wraithbone might be a good shout, if you want a Citadel colour.

Verdigris
Nihilakh Oxide is slopped straight on over the cream colour for a very, very oxidised look. A drybrush of Warplock Bronze then goes over the top.


Rust
This is comfortably the most time consuming element.
  1. Slop on a basecoat using the Cygor Brown Citadel Contrast Paint. This goes on smoothly and provides good coverage compared to watering down a normal paint. Be sure to use a BIG brush to block in the large areas first, then go in with a regular size brush to do the rest. That'll save you a bunch of time. Regardless, this is the longest, most boring step of the whole thing. After this, it's all downhill.
  2. Slop on a watered down orange-brown. I used Army Painter's Dirt Spatter, but literally any mid-brown with an orange tint will do the job. Be liberal and loose with your application, don't try and get complete coverage - you want some variation.
  3. Throw some watered down bright rusty oranges at the recesses. Any bright orange will do; I used Ryza Rust, and also mixed two rust-coloured powder pigments with Lahmnian Medium to create additional rust washes so that there's a mix of intense colour on there. If you're strapped for time, then just one or two bright oranges will be fine.
  4. Drybrush bits of the rust with Leadbelcher (or in my case, Army Painter Gunmetal, but it doesn't matter). I concentrated on window sills, doorframes, floors, and stuff at person height.
  5. Do a heavier Leadbelcher drybrush on any moving parts, e.g. extractor fans, pistons, cogs and door/window runners.

Wiring & lights
I did these with Black Templar Contrast paint in a single layer. There's a strong argument for doing the lights switched on, but I was trying to speed up.

Add filth
I recess shaded the building with Agrax Earthshade. Don't apply this over the whole thing - you'll just get a muddy mess that pools in big flat areas of the walls. Apply it in recesses, and to show damp runoff and other crud. If you want a quick and easy method of fading, apply a thin film of water to an area with a damp brush, then blob the Agrax in the lower half of that area - you'll get a smoother fade. I alternated between that and harsher fades to try and imply layers of built up crud, but for the next building I'll probaby avoid the harsher tidal marks.

So there you have it! If you've painted your own version of this kit in a different scheme, please do link it in the comments section - I am permanently thirsty for ideas of how to paint the next batch of this stuff and could easily be swayed to doing something entirely different if I like the look of it. I'll end with a few parting shots:

I chose to do less weathering on the interior for obvious reasons, but it's still pretty appallingly grim for the occupants.

I find the sheer scale of these kits is quite imposing on the tabletop... in a good way. I feel like Imperial architecture should make people feel small and oppressed. Woooo, dystopia.


Judging a Codex By Its Cover(age)

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The impending release of Codex: Orks for 9th edition 40K is stirring the long-dormant bit of me that enjoys painting ramshackle vehicles, but it's not a foregone conclusion. If the new Codex is overpowered it'll dent my enthusiasm. As GW's Community team tease details from the new book, I find myself growing concerned. In today's short post, then, I'm going to talk about whether or not that concern is sensible, and what to do if we get a bad case of Codex power creep.


The first thing that really got my attention was the announcement that basic orks would henceforth be Toughness 5. Any seasoned player of 40K probably understands what a big difference that is. Suddenly, a Space Marine with a boltgun will have just as much a chance of causing a wound as a veteran Guardsman with a lasgun. From an immersion perspective, that feels off, and like it risks making basic workhorse units weirdly ineffective against massed infantry.

On the one hand, I tell myself not to worry. It's very easy to see these things shown off out of context on the Community site and start making inaccurate assumptions. I don't know how many points boyz now cost. I don't know if they're trying to reduce the number of minis an ork player needs for a viable army. I haven't used this codex in a game to see the actual practical difference it makes. Do I find it weird that a Space Marine is just as "deadly" as a guard sergeant against an ork in melee? Yes, very much so. Should this result in my flipping out that GW have "definitely ruined" my game of little plastic space men? Meh, the world has bigger problems than that.

It should be noted, though, that as the owner of the army in question, I don't want it to be better than other people's armies. I want them to enjoy fighting me. 40K's basic nature precludes the possibility of perfect game balance, but let's just look at some of the other rules we've been shown.

For instance, there's the new Ramshackle rule. Apparently "pretty much every Ork vehicle now counts as Ramshackle."


On the face of it, this is a nice improvement to playability in that it's taken a dice roll out of the equation and makes the rule 'relevant' as opposed to being 'that dice roll I usually forget about.' The downside, and it's a big one, is that light vehicles of the sort usually driven by orks should, in theory, be vulnerable to guns designed to deal with, you know, light vehicles. I would argue the humble autocannon ought to be the ideal weapon for this, but this new rule literally halves the damage output of that poor, neglected, mid-strength Damage 2 weapon. Again, on the face of it this seems like the game moving further away from how things are presented in the lore.

On the other hand, just how many S6-7 D2 guns are there? At this point it's kind of a niche, and if the overall theme they're going for is that orks are so meaty that they can weather all the punches, then I guess maybe this makes sense? It does, however, reduce the variety of weapons (and therefore units) that I'm likely to encounter as an ork player, but that's probably not the end of the world.

OK, so, let's imagine for a moment that the new book is in fact grossly overpowered. I hope it won't be, but for the sake of argument let's say that it is. As a primarily narrative player, what's the best remedial action for me to take?

I nerf myself, when I think about you
What could be Orkier than hitting yourself in the face with a nerf bat?* The great thing about nerfing onseself is that your opponent is unlikely to object. I'll definitely play some games with the book as-is, so I can get a sense of whether my opponent is in with a chance. If it's horrible to play against, I'll try and come up with changes. Drop the Toughness back down, alongside a conservative drop in points. That sort of thing.  My heart will go out to people in competitive groups where the rules are sacred, but personally I have no such limitation.

The other option that's open to me as a narrative Ork player is to play like the Speed Freak I am. For me, 'Da Plan' usually involves going as fast as possible, even when it's not the best idea, and generally doing dumb stuff unlikely to actually win me the game. So maybe, if the new book is broken AF, this means I'll still give my opponent an enjoyable challenge?

So long as I remember the ultimate objective of wargaming - to ensure, win or lose, that my opponent has a good time - it'll be fine. Winning too hard? Do something characterful yet counterproductive just for the hell of it. Losing? Who cares, Orks is never truly beaten. I might have my fears about the new book but I'm pretty sure fun is going to be had regardless, and if it really is buggered, I'll bust out the mek's toolz.





*Plenty of things, actually. Like doing exactly that, but driving a motorbike off a big ramp.






Ogre Kingdoms: Rebasing Project Step by Step

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Welcome, today we are going to be rebasing my entire Ogre army. The current basing is inconsistent across units. This is completely my own fault. The original basing I did in the dark days before I put any effort into basing whatsoever. Some of the units still had this original scheme, others had various different schemes but I couldn't settle on a single one. I settled in and did some research into an effective but low effort basing for them.



Before I could get into the new scheme I had to remove the previous basing. Fortunately PVA can be reactivated by soaking it in water. Acrylic paints are unaffected by water which is great as I marinated my Ogres in a baking tray for roughly 60 minutes.


 
Once properly soaked you can see the PVA turn white again. This means it is ready to be removed.


 
Removal was nice and easy. First step is to simply scrape away the old static grass and tufts and what-have-yous. I used an old, blunt hobby blade and carefully just scraped it away trying to avoid damaging the model or the texture paint underneath. I wanted to keep that there.



Next I took out my favourite old toothbrush and went to town to scrub away the last of the PVA and static grass. This process is messy so please don't it over your laptop or you WILL spend the next few days pulling out static grass lumps from your keyboard.


 
Finally give it one last swish around in the water to clean up and loose bits that are clinging on and you have the base all stripped. Just put them aside to dry and move on to the next one. Repeat until you have stripped every last single one of your models.



Once everything is properly dry we can set about rebasing. I opted to create a mix of materials that I can simply stick onto the base and go from there. I dug out an old take-away container out from under the sink and proceeded to dump in sand, grit, gravel, flock, stack grass, chopped up sponge, moss, and whatever else I could find in the basing box that seemed appropriate for a desolate mountain side. To begin I gave the base a VERY generous coat of PVA then stuck it in the mix.



I left the model in the mix for a few minutes to let the basing mix soak into the PVA properly.



Then I gave it a little shake to remove any really loose bits. I was careful not to dislodge everything as I wanted to keep as much as I could on the base.



I left it to dry like that for an hour or so (or however long it took me to dip everything and get some lunch). I then mix up some sealant from PVA, water, and a few drops of washing up liquid. The washing up liquid helps reduce the surface tension of the water and lets it flow into every nook and cranny. Add enough water so it is the consistency of skimmed milk. I have to state at this point DO NOT PUT THIS IN YOUR TEA! I tastes horrible and will ruin a good cup of tea. Plus might not actually be very good for you, I don't actually know. I deployed the mix using a pipette and properly flooded the base. Now do not touch it and leave it to dry. I left it overnight before attempting to touch it.



Now sit back and enjoy your freshly rebased models.

I'm not planning anything new for this army just yet. Well, I might do a unit of Yetis if I can find some decent models. Oh, and I do want a unit of Man-Eaters if I can find something suitable. Also some Rhinox cavalry wouldn't go amiss. I really NEED a Stonehorn as well as it is a magnificent model.



Ok, maybe there will be some new Ogres in the future. I also think I need to do a proper photoshoot with these guys at some point as well.



A Tyrant's work is never done...







 


Adding more variety to Intercessors

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Since UK restrictions eased I've been playing a lot of 40K, and this has had the UNSURPRISING YET DELICIOUS effect of making me want to paint more Space Marines, despite earlier declaring I was done with them. The army's core of 3x5 Intercessors always felt a bit thin, so my first port of call was to bulk out Squad Tyvus with another five dudes. The thing about Intercessors, though, is that beyond the sergeant and the giddy excitement of a few auxiliary grenade launchers, there's no variety in these modern squads.

At least, not in the rules.

I've always maintained you don't need rules to add flavour, so I'm practicing what I preach and have added a couple of specialists to the unit. They might not have any in-game effects, but I always thought the Helix Adept in the infiltrator units was a very cool idea, and this is just an iteration on that idea, with both Helix and Tech adepts present in Sergeant Tyvus' squad.


To mark them out, I gave them a special pauldron and matching arm. Since they have no mechanical impact, I was careful to make sure they're still toting rifles like everyone else, as I want my opponent to have no trouble understanding what they're facing.

The tech adept is thoughtfully waving about the auspex (which, along with the helmet and pauldrons, is from the Repulsor Executioner kit). Here's a closeup:


I had no special shoulder pad for the Helix Adept, so just did it freehand instead. I actually find doing freehand icons easier than faffing about highlighting a moulded pauldron, but these moulded fists allow me consistency that would otherwise elude me.



The only other detail of note that I added to the Helix Adept was a big ol' box/pouch thing to represent his medi-kit. A little green stuff was needed to make it work, but in general it was a pretty simple conversion.


In case it's helpful to the uninitiated, I've covered the painting side of these guys in previous articles; the colour recipes are all provided in the post on the captain, and there's a tutorial on the blue armour (and edge highlighting in general) here.

For the satisfaction of it, here's the full squad:


The eagle-eyed will note I've changed from black base rims to a brown. I was finding that on the table, the black rims drew attention away from the model, and after spending five hours on each marine, one really wants them to get more attention than their own base rims. Not that this saved them from Tom's Tyranids. Here's poor Sergeant Tyvus and others shortly before my ignominious last stand:

We got this?


Nope.

Automated Firestrike Servo-turret

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Back in November I made a Firestrike Servo-turret. So far it has mostly been nuked off the table by opponents realising it has a lot of firepower and not a lot of wounds. Naturally my response to this ineffectiveness is to double down on the stupid and add another.

Since this is part of the same unit as the first turret, I wanted it to be automated, imagining it would be slaved to the techmarine running the battery. This required a little conversion work: slicing off the seat, various cables, and handles. There was only a little green stuff needed to fill a hole where the seat protruded from the main chassis.

I tried to convey a few things in the painting. Where the manned turret has a decorative silver skull, the one on this turret is an actual servo-skull. Possibly the most heavily armed and armoured servo skull in the Imperial arsenal? At any rate, another fine entry in the long list of "heavily armoured Imperial things extremely vulnerable to headshots." I also changed the colour of some lights on the back from red (on the manned one) to green, indicating the turret's automated systems are active. No-one's ever going to notice that, but it doth please me nonetheless. Unlike the basing rock that comes in the kit, which in retrospect I should've just binned. I have sculpted more convincing rocks myself, and have plenty of actual rocks to hand, it just felt wasteful to throw it away. Ah well.

This time round I made a point of painting up both the autocannon and las-talon variants, giving me more flexibility in army lists. No magnetisation was needed, since this kit needs virtually no glue anyway.


As I was painting it, the sentry guns in Aliens came to mind. The urge to paint an ammo count on the gun's little screen could not be denied.


It's tempting to do another unmanned one so as to have a battery of three. That'd be visually satisfying... and cost an eye-watering number of points. But as charming as this thing is, I should probably paint something more useful next to balance it out. For now, I shall leave you with more pictures.





Spawn!

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In recent times two things have happened. Firstly, but chronologically second, we have gained a new codex for the Thousand Sons. The codex is actually quite good. Positives include more wounds for your Arcana Astartes and the daemon engines gaining some extra shooty points. Negatives include no actual daemons in the book and you can no longer take hordes of minions. Which to me is a downside as I liked the image of a powerful sorcerer kicking about a mass of expendable underlings towards the enemy. Also gone are the stratagems that allow you to mutate models into daemons or spawn. Do not despair, this is now part of the crusade rules. In fairness I think this is probably a good thing, partly because it probably takes longer than a single game turn to mutate, partly it is also fairer for those of us who don't have the spare models kicking about to spontaneously drop in a Daemon Prince because of a lucky roll. Other things include a whole load of new rules for Cabbalistic Rituals, Infernal Pacts, Cults, Legion Command, Crusade, and a few other things. Lots to get my head around. Which I will, one day, maybe...

Not-Danny-Butterman

Secondly and more importantly (and also technically this happened first) we've been allowed out to play again. My hobby is fuelled by direct interaction, that is to say gaming, with people, in real life. So actually getting out of the house and playing again has put a little fuel in the tank.

  
With all of this I felt that I had the juice to get on with a few of those units that I'd not got around to yet. Namely Spawn. I think having some Spawn kicking around is a fairly important part of a Thousand Sons army. Not because they'll change the course of a game for you, but because they add to the flavour. They are a warped and mangled stock cube in the stew of weirdness that is the Thousand Sons. So I grabbed a couple of boxes, giving me four beasties.

United Colours of Tzeentch
 

These kits (I think) are relatively old now but they still stand up well. Each pack has a huge number of random components that can be used to make each spawn as different as you like. I tried to make each one feel different to each other. As I was building them they all got given really stupid little nicknames, my favourite being Not-Danny-Butterman (because he's made of eyes).

Painting is when it got really fun. Normally when painting I'm fairly careful and tidy. I only keep out the few paints that I actually need. Not this time. I basically dumped out all the washes, shades, and contrast paints that we have and just kinda went to town a bit. The United Colours of Tzeentch is the one I am most happy with in this respect. As the contrast paints take longer to dry it was fairly easy to blend and fade between the magenta, purple, and blues along the limbs.

Little Miss Crab Face

After that each model was hit with some selected dry brushing. Since these models have such a pronounced texture it works really well to build up the layers. Little Miss Crabface's body shows this well with the change between teal to a pale bone in places.


Once all that was dry it was time to pick out a few details, and in the case of Hector The No Longer Well-Endowed, I broke out the technical paints just to make his skin look extra sore and painful. I can't imagine having various spikes and blades popping out here, there, and everywhere being very comfortable.

Hector The No Longer Well-Endowed

Basing. The basing is sand, painted to look like sand.

I can't decide what the next unit is going to be for the Thousand Sons. I've been putting very serious thoughts into making cultists that are more Tzeentch/Thousand Sons themed but I've been struggling a little with how to actually do that. I've also been eying up a Daemon Prince for when Rah'zuul finally manages to get enough loyalty points on his Tzeentch membership card and ascends into daemonhood. Or it might be a funking huge daemon engine, with wings! Only Tzeentch knows.




The Nova Tarentis Massacre

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Bladeguard Veterans have a very particular aesthetic, and that aesthetic looks a whole lot more medieval than the rest of my Cobalt Scions force. This led me to have a bit of a think about how they fit in. Regular readers will already have learned that when I say "a bit of a think" this generally means "Charlie's written a load of new lore." Today, then, I offer you three things:
  1. Pictures.
  2. The death of an Astartes Chapter.
  3. Notes on the Heraldry I've chosen.

The Nova Tarentis Massacre

A prosperous world of significant agricultural and mineral output, Nova Tarentis was crucial to trade within its area of the Segmentum Pacificus, and an obvious target for the archenemy. Traitor Guard and Dark Mechanicum forces attacked in strength, and pleas for aid were made. Keen to end the invasion quickly, the full Azure Drakes chapter responded, along with four companies of Cobalt Scions in support. The Drakes' Chapter Master Sorkhos Danithor committed to a full orbital assault, giving the enemy on the ground little time to react.

Once the bulk of the Drakes and Scions had launched from their vessels, however, drive cores began to kindle all around Nova Tarentis' planetary rings. A substantial force of Black Legionnaires, thousands strong, had laid the perfect trap. Extracting the deployed troops would take hours, so Danithor - now trapped on the surface with the rest of his chapter - ordered the fleet to break orbit and seek reinforcements. The one-sided fleet engagement was a sign of things to come. The Imperial fleet suffered catastrophic losses as it sped for the Mandeville Point.

With their fleet gone, the loyal Astartes fought on as the traitors made planetfall. The fighting was brutal, but ultimately the Drakes and Scions were in an impossible position, hunted by a superior foe and lacking crucial supplies thanks to the loss of their orbital support.

Danithor orchestrated several breakout attempts, reasoning that asymmetric guerrilla warfare might allow more of his forces to survive until reinforcements arrived, but the Black Legion's noose proved too tight. Slowly, the Astartes army lost ground. When the battered Azure Drakes fleet returned with reinforcements, the few remaining marines were already making their last stand.

As soon as the heretics' scout vessels spotted the incoming Imperial fleet in the system's outer reaches, the Black Legion began evacuating, their mission a total success. They had slain over a thousand loyalist marines, and had taken favourable casualties.

The final blow was, perhaps, the bitterest. During the enemy's final assault, Danithor noted enemy bombardments on the Imperial formations either side of his position, but none on his own. When enemy veterans in terminator plate teleported down behind him, preventing retreat, he realised all too late that they intended to take him alive. In his last recorded communication, he passed command to the most senior Imperial commander left - a Cobalt Scions reserve sergeant - before taking his own life. Frustrated, the Black Legion veterans butchered his retinue, but left empty handed. It mattered not; the Azure Drakes were gone in all but name.

Aftermath
Being of the same geneseed, it was agreed that the few surviving Drakes would be folded into the Cobalt Scions. Some were unhappy to muddy the chapter's culture with the more bellicose Drakes, but none would have seen the survivors cast adrift. The legacy of the Drakes would live on as one of a number of fraternities that a Cobalt Scion might choose to join during their life in the Chapter. Likewise, their few remaining fleet assets, including the crippled battle barge Tarasc, would be used to replenish the Scions' naval losses.

With the Scions themselves now dangerously under strength, they were dismissed from the Indomitus Crusade and told to set off for their new home world of Thonis.

During the voyage, as the Tarasc limped along with the rest of the fleet, its engineers created a hall of remembrance, bearing the tattered banners and engraved names of all the fallen Drakes. Above the entrance is a plaque bearing the words In Memory of Those I Hoped To Save.

Formation of the Cobalt Scions’ Bladeguard
Brother Azarias was one of the few Azure Drakes veterans to survive the Nova Tarentis Massacre. Following the incorporation of the surviving Drakes into the Cobalt Scions, Azarias took an oath to protect his new chapter master with his life. Coming from a very different chapter culture, he refused to conduct himself in the refined style of the Scions, often mocking others and then challenging them when they failed to mock him back. Amused by this upstart and keen to temper the egos of his senior staff, Chapter Master Drusus instructed Azarias to create his own semi-autonomous brotherhood. Azarias himself was slain protecting Drusus two years later during the reclamation of Raxis Minor, and the Bladeguard - then numbering only seven warriors - was officially renamed the Azarian Guard in his honour, although the term Bladeguard is also still used as well.

While this brotherhood exists outside the company structure, their numbers (a maximum of thirty) count against the tally of the First Company. They do not have squads, and bear heraldry of the individual rather than the unit. To join them is to foresake the right to seek a command position within the chapter, and to become truly dedicated to pursuing martial prowess. Answerable only to the Chapter Master and the Reclusiam's Master of Sanctity, they have permission to mock officers, and cannot be censured by any but the Chapter Master or Master of Sanctity for doing so. If they decide to follow an officer to war, however, they must still follow the officer's commands precisely during engagements. If a commander wants the aid of the Azarian Guard on a mission, he cannot requisition them; instead, he must petition them. Likewise, Azarian Guards are permitted to turn up unannounced and accompany a strike force if they deem the mission interesting. When not accompanying a strike force or directly protecting the Chapter Master, Azarian Guards are known to undertake quests of their own volition, seeking out worthy foes and providing unexpected aid.

Heraldry of the Azarian Guard

Brother Priahad
Brother Priahad's helm bears a gold skull, indicating that he is serving as the temporary leader of his fellow Bladeguard. In this way, Cobalt Scions officers know who to direct their commands to. The skull itself is not a permanent fixture but a badge that can be easily removed and passed to another bladeguard between engagements.

His left pauldron bears the chapter icon. It is presented in gold so as to evoke a shield, representing the bladeguard's commitment to safeguarding the Chapter Master.


His right pauldron bears his individual heraldry, evoking a deed or quest he has undertaken that his fellow veterans regard as worthy. It shows the four stars of Thonicia, in reference to the vow Priahad enacted to visit every inhabited world in the sprawling home system and provide unexpected aid to those in need.

Brother Priahad

The four stars of Thonicia being emulated in the pauldron

The tilting plate on his chest bears the ghostly image of a wyrm, and the chapter colour of the Azure Drakes, indicating that he is one of the original members of the now-defunct chapter. The wyrm is presented in a ghostly manner to reference the lingering spirits of his dead brothers.

Brother Katumaros
The golden skull on Katumaros' tilting plate indicates that he was once an officer. Counter-intuitively, he wears this as a mark of shame; as the fleet master who couldn't bring reinforcements to rescue his brothers in time, he is wracked by guilt and joined the Azarian Guard to ensure he could never rise to a position of command again. Despite a storied career prior to the Nova Tarentis Massacre, he considers his old achievements dead, and as such, his right pauldron remains devoid of heraldry.

Brother Katumaros

Brother Galadoc
A mere brother in the Azure Drakes' 8th reserve company when his Chapter was destroyed, Galadoc has only recently joined the Azarian Guard. Like Priahad, his tilting plate features a ghostly image, this time of a dragon's head, commemorating his deceased captain, who he revered. As a new member of the bladeguard, Galadoc has yet to earn personal heraldry for his right pauldron.

Brother Galadoc

On his arm, he also bears a rosary once carried by one of the Drakes' chaplains. Galadoc's keen observance of the rites and rituals of his old chapter cult was one of the factors in his acceptance into the Azarian Guard, even though in theory martial prowess should be the only factor.


In Closing

It feels insufferably pretentious to think of this last bit as designer's notes, but I can't think of a better phrase, so pbbbt.

The main benefit of leaving two pauldrons blank is that when I eventually get to play a 40K Crusade, I can wait and see what the unit do in-game, and add to their heraldry accordingly. The trick will be to wait for something particularly cool, rather than simply slapping something on there the first time they kill a gretchin.

I should also add that the Nova Tarentis massacre, and the Azure Drakes as a whole, were not written purely so that I could have these minis. The chapter was already in the mix by the time I did Lieutenant Nerva back in April. They were originally added to evoke the way the Roman Empire absorbed other cultures. I wanted that melting pot feel; they've got their original chapter, the chapter they absorbed, and then the various cultures of the worlds of Thonicia feeding into it, leaving space for a lot of cultural variety. With the Bladeguard in particular it makes me think of the way Romans used 'barbarian' troops (e.g. cavalry from Germanian tribes) as auxiliaries. Actually the best comparison is the Varangian Guard, a group of Norse and Anglo-Saxon warriors who served as the bodyguards of the Byzantine Emperors.

In the fullness of time I'd like to convert a squad of true 1st Company veterans kitted out like Bladeguard but looking much more like the rest of the army, so you can see the two cultures side by side.

Hopefully this lore has been edifying; I've certainly enjoyed finding new narrative depths to plumb as this army's expanded. Next time on Charlie Paints Blue Dudes, I'll return with more lessons I've learned on the painting side of things.

Supersizing My Tank Butt

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When I painted an Impulsor back in March, I mentioned that I'd built it from the Gladiator kit (that's the full Impulsor kit plus the extra gubbins for a turret). In preparation for a recent game against Andy and Tom's extremely aggressive Necrons, I decided guns were more important than speed, and took the chance to paint up the turret. In doing so I learned a thing or two about making vehicle painting more efficient, so I'm sharing those things today.

Does this require magnetising?

The actual turret mount doesn't need any magnetising - it just sits on the Impulsor's hull and doesn't move around at all. Here's how it goes together:




I suspect this may have been a deliberate move by a forward-thinking sculptor. With the additional layers of paint it doesn't sit perfectly flush, but if that bothers you then it's easily scraped back on the underside of the turret mount.

If you wanted to be able to field all three Gladiator variants you'd want to magnetise the guns themselves. Also of note is that while you get separate sponson housings, you only get one sponson baseplate connecting to the hull, so they're the main sticking point. You'd ideally want some spare baseplates from a bits vendor, or perhaps magnetise the different sponsons onto the baseplate, I guess?

Improving efficiency with vehicle painting

For Ultramarines-style blue armour, my Macragge Blue basecoat is highlighted with Calgar Blue, then Fenrisian Grey. On infantry those two highlight steps are normal highlights, but that's pretty onerous on a vehicle. Unfortunately just drybrushing them doesn't give you quite the same pop. My Repulsor Executioner had the Fenrisian Grey stage done, laboriously, as a normal highlight. Conversely with my Stormtalon Gunship I tried just doing it all with drybrushing, and it looks fine, it's just not quite as crisp. With this gladiator, however, I drybrushed both highlight tones and then went over any bits that needed more emphasis with a normal highlight of Fenrisian Grey. This pretty much gave me the pop of a full highlight with (near as dammit) the speed of a drybrush.


With the highlighting complete, I then applied Reaper's Blue Liner into the recesses, which tidied up any paint dust from the drybrush. A glaze of Army Painter's Oak Brown added some dirt, and since orange is the opposite of blue on the colour wheel this has the added benefit of shading the thing at the same time.

The method used for the red glass panels is the same as the one outlined in my post on the Repulsor Executioner, and despite being nine stages, goes on rather faster than I remembered and wasn't too onerous. All in all I now feel less intimidated by the idea of adding more vehicles to the force. Hopefully my little incremental learning points on this army prove useful to you, dear reader. That is, after all, the point of a hobby blog.

Getting more efficient at painting blue power armour

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In over 20 years of painting miniatures, I've only just realised this Cobalt Scions army is the first time I've ever painted an army in which every model is fully edge highlighted. Plenty of characters and warbands got highlights over the years, but mostly I've used faster methods for the bulk of an army. Drybrushing, dirt washes, that sort of thing. Doing highlights across the whole army has revealed that I'd never really refined my highlighting method. I hadn't needed to, just doing one character here and there. Two and a half thousand points into the project, I've unsurprisingly learned quite a bit, and over the course of the project I've more or less halved the time it takes me to paint these guys.

Today then I'm going to provide some updates to the (still mostly true) guide to highlighting blue power armour I wrote in June 2020.

I figured this stuff out while preparing for a game against Tom and Andy's combined Necrons (an educational thrashing, by the way). I had a few weeks in which to paint 3 bladeguard, a tank butt, and 5 intercessors. On paper I was doomed, and yet to the bafflement of everyone familiar with my usual painting speed, these lads happened:


OK so technically I didn't have the squad numerals painted in time for the game, but they were still presentable, and done in 4-5 hours per dude (as opposed to the 8ish hours per marine I took for the first squad).

More efficient highlighting

So, how did I accomplish this astonishing vaguely impressive [by my standards] feat? Well, when executing detailed paint schemes like this, there's an instinct to do one colour to completion, then work on the next thing. Conversely when you're batch painting, the rule is to do your paint stages in decreasing order of messiness. Here, then, is the refined order of business:

1. The Priming
Spray Chaos Black, then somewhat zenithally spray Macragge Blue.

2. The Sloppy Giuseppaint
Right out of the gate, this is where I saved entire hours of my life by applying the world's sloppiest, mostly overbrushed highlight of Calgar Blue on the armour. If it looks good, you're doing it wrong. You don't have to worry about the paint going everywhere, because literally every part of this model is about to get painted with another colour.

I did several thinned layers, treating it as half-zenithal overbrushing and half-edge highlights. But, like, bad edge highlights. Thick ones. Done with a brush deliberately too big to allow for precision, forcing me to relax and speed up rather than getting sucked into the details.

3. Faster blocking in
Citadel Contrast Black Templar was applied to rubberised seals, pouches, belts, guns, and all metal areas. This will still look a bit blue, but is much faster and smoother to apply than a normal paint, and knocks it far enough off the blue that the subsequent colours don't need as much work to look solid.

4. Paint most of the owl
Most of this was just standard shade/highlight shenanigans over most of the colour areas of the model. The thing worth calling out is the black pouches/belts. I didn't bother putting on the normal basecoat of Corvus Black. Instead I went straight to the highlights, despite the blue-ish unfinished look created by the black Contrast paint. Once all the highlights were done, and I'd lined in the recesses with more Black Templar, only then did I cut in with Corvus, effectively combining the tidy up stage with the basecoating stage. Significantly quicker, and visually indistinguishable from my other dudes.

In this phase, I painted everything except light sources (eyes, glowy buttons etc), and then...

5. Go back to highlighting the blue
The models at this point looked pretty hilarious, like a functioning adult painted all the details, but their toddler did the blue armour. It was time to fix that. I did the much more sharp Fenrisian Grey highlight like normal, then used Reaper's Blue Liner on the recesses (which meant I could correct any points where I'd messed up with the Fenrisian Grey). Only now did I actually open a pot of Macragge Blue, water some down, and apply a semi-translucent basecoat. This tidied up the messy (but quick) first highlight stage done way back at the start, while also getting the main colour down on the miniature.

6. Basing, and the lap of victory
Yep, time for sand and grass and the final satisfaction of painting the base rims.

TLDR, please?
All in all the main thing that saved time was doing the highlights ass-backwards, that is to say:
  1. Punt yourself into roughly the right colour with a spray or contrast paint.
  2. Do a very messy first highlight.
  3. Do a lighter and more crisp second highlight.
  4. Do the recess shade.
  5. Do the basecoat and tidy up your work.
This probably saved me about an hour per dude. I should time it at some point, because it might not be a whole hour I shaved off, but they definitely came together faster and more smoothly. You just have to be willing to let the model look like ass for a while and trust the process.

More specialists

Following on from my post on adding variety to Intercessors, I added a couple of specialists to the unit as suggested by regular reader RSF_Angel. First was a marksman wielding a stalker bolt rifle with marksman's honours on his pauldron, and second was a combat squad leader designated by a skull on his helmet and right pauldron trim. To balance out the single shot stalker bolter I also chucked in an auto bolter (not that anyone would care) and just hand-wave the whole squad as bolt rifle dudes.

Squad sniper

Combat Squad Leader

It would've been cool to paint the dude with the auspex as a Helix Adept, but I ran out of time. Maybe I'll promote him with some extra painting if the squad get sufficiently experienced in a Crusade.

Wait... 2,500 points?!

Yeah I'm amazed my attention span has somehow lasted this far. I think it helped that I had a brief break from them, and it really helped that we're playing games again. I'm just having a lot of fun, even when I lose. Which I most certainly do. Here's the whole army so far:


I say 'so far' because, while I'm now going to paint a few single minis for some roleplay scenarios, I think I'd like to have a crack at doing a wee Phobos armoured detachment next. After that, who knows? Not me. Being constrained by a strict plan is oppressive, particularly now that the army's functional. I can just add in whatever interests me that month.

Revengers re-assemble!

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The boys in blue and heretics in red have been doing far too much of the heavy lifting here of late.  It seemed time for some Necrons to show their faces.

There won't be the tips or guidance that Jeff or Charlie can offer, merely a showcase of (almost) all of my shiny metal boyz.


Leading my force are a bevvy of various nobles, front-right is my Overlord, centre his Warden, and front-left a supporting Lord.  There's also another Lord hiding on the right.  Behind them are the two shards of the C'Tan the Ikarrans once controlled and aim to recover (I've rebased them to match the Void Dragon I hope to get in the future, and had some fun trying to make the Nightbringer look like the very ground is recoiling from him as he passes).


The final Lord in the army is the Skorpekh Lord and his destroyer minions.  New Indomitus additions, these have changed the way the Necrons play quite considerably, giving them far more punch in combat.  You can also see the Canoptek Spyder and my Wraiths behind these which I've converted to resemble scorpions to better fit with the insectile look of many other Canoptek units.
(To be perfectly honest, it was really because I just prefer the look - it was a relatively easy conversion, they were built almost as stock but with the bodies and legs upside down, all that really needed doing was to trim off sections of the tail that are flattened to attach to the bases when built normally.  In game, seeing as they could much more easily hide in this configuration, we like to say that as long as any part of the tail is visible the whole model is visible to be as fair as possible).


The other side of the Destroyer coin are these old school models who have the most extreme example of my need to replace the old green plastic rods on their guns, but you'll see it throughout the army and now I'm committed I can't really go back.

The last of the significant units are the new quadra-pod units - also known as Hooooonks in our little group (just look up War of the Worlds to understand).  I was shocked at how tall the Doomstalker is, I originally thought it would be the same size as the Reanimator.  The unit on the right is a Triarch Stalker - again I converted it to be more insectile, losing the Necron that is riding it, and with the gun riding on its back rather than underslung.


Here you can see the big guns being carried by these two units in a little more detail.


And finally, after all the teasing, here's the whole army (well almost) in a single shot.  Arrayed in front are the 40-50 Warriors, Immortals, Flayed Ones, and a few other units that I've collected over the years.
Although after packing all this up, I remembered that I also have 2 converted Ark models that can be arranged to be either a Ghost Ark or Doomsday Ark, and 3 Annihilation Barges from which the guns could be removed and a Lord placed on top to create Command Barges, so there's a little more to this in the end.


As for gaming, here in the East annexe of the Bunker, Tom and I have been playing a Crusade campaign as the Ikarrans awaken from their slumber and begin to rebuild their strength in and around the Pheraean Rift, and have been rudely interrupted by the Raven Guard.  After their first encounter with the forces of Chaos on Iaa-Q, they chose to focus their attention on the world now known as Xise Juan where their initial success has been somewhat stalled after the Raven Guard brought Eradicators, Blade Guard, and a Dreadnought to the party.  It will serve them well to do all they can to halt the Ikarrans as little do they know but buried at the heart of the storage-crypts of the tomb complex lies one of the Dynasty's C'Tan shards (presuming the restraining engrams have withstood the passage of 65 million years).

Cheers
Andy

Napoleonics: A French Brigade

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 Not a massive amount to say this week, so I've taken a lot of photos instead. 


I've managed to find a bit of time off work and threw myself into finishing off my Napoleonics to-do pile. In a week I chunked through two half finished light infantry units, and a full battalion of line. 

This brings me up to having the bare minimum for playing some Black Powder! Yes, Black Powder, and Napoleonics in general is massive in scale and the forces used where huge. Which looks amazing on the tabletop but is a daunting task to paint. 

To add a little perspective what I have here is an Infantry brigade of four battalions + command. It also has an attached artillery battery and some Hussars (for giggles). This amounts to about 250pts. To quote the Black Powder rulebook "in a typical encounter battle, we’ll have three players on each side with each player controlling a brigade. A brigade might typically be four infantry battalions, a gun, and two cavalry regiments together with a commander. this is purely an example and is given in order to give the reader an idea of the size and type of forces we might use in a typical game."

All of these where painted using contrast paints (plus a few regular paints for some highlights) to keep things speedy.

What I would like to do next, and what I've already started is to make a similarly sized British force so we can actually play some games! Crazy right? I currently have a battalion of British redcoats on the work bench and Emma is insisting on painting a regiment of the Scot's Grays. Just because she wants a lot of gray ponies running around, and I for one won't stop her.

I also have started peeking down the rabbit hole of small scale Napoleonics. Yup, I'm going to do some 6mm stuff. This is to statify the need to see huge lines of infantry, sweeping cavalry formations, and massive gun batteries, all without needing the NEC to play in. 

I'm going to leave you with a dump of photos of each units. Just because...


Characterisation Creation for Deathwatch Marines

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It's easy to fall into a trap when creating a Space Marine. Fear is the baby, and every other human emotion besides rage is the bathwater. Legions of blandly angry bald dudes populate the fanficosphere and, dare I say it, a certain percentage of the Black Library. If they're not angry, they're stoic. That's usually even more boring.

Obviously if I objected to the presence of rage and stoicism in my fiction I wouldn't be a 40K fan, but there's limits. Today, then, I seek to do my part by providing a series of prompts to help anyone trying to write a Space Marine character, be it to lead their army in a 40K Crusade or for a roleplay scenario. It's specifically written for creating Deathwatch characters, but honestly it'll work fine for pretty much any loyalist marine, and in a pinch, spiky marines too.

Side note: I wrote this guide for our gaming group to create their Deathwatch roleplay characters. I won't share the rules themselves, since they're adapted from the actual RPG I work on, and for a number of obvious reasons I don't want to promote my tiny indie game by riding on the coattails of another company's IP.

To nerdily echo the Ultramarines' Theoretical/Practical dialectic I will providing the questions and prompts (the theoretical) and then providing an example answer (practical) for one specific marine: Lieutenant Marcus Varro, newly seconded to the Deathwatch. He's been painted up in time for a scenario Tom is going to traumatise us with next month.


Which Chapter are you from?

There are a thousand chapters, all with their own traditions, although all hail from one of the 20 original Legiones Astartes. Your chapter will define much about you culturally, psychologically, tactically and visually.

Cobalt Scion. A Chapter of the Indumitus Founding. Culturally they cleave extremely close to their gene-sires the Ultramarines, taking a direct interest in improving the society of their home system. The chapter's leadership includes four members of the Ultramarines' 1st Company who crossed the Rubicon Primaris to guide the Cobalt Scions from their inception.

What is your name?

Firstly, choose a name. Remember that most marine chapters have cultural archetypes which may serve to inspire the tone of your name; while the White Scars would have pseudo-Mongolian monikers, the Ultramarines are essentially space Romans, whereas the Space Wolves will have a more Nordic tone. If you're at a loss, Goonhammer have some name generators for different 40K factions.

Marcus Varro.

What was your assignment in your chapter of origin?

You may have been a battle brother, or perhaps a techmarine with a penchant for driving tanks. Maybe you’re a member of the veteran 1st company of your chapter, and maybe you’re a promising young warrior only recently allowed to don power armour for the first time.

Lieutenant, 8th reserve company. The 8th is responsible for further improving a marine's skill at close assault prior to being elevated to a position in one of the battle companies. As such, Varro accustomed to training marines in the advanced use of a variety of melee weapons. In the stasis pods of Cawl's vessel he was psych-indoctrinated for a command role, implanted with a variety of standardised responses to various scenarios, and consequently has never served as a rating. During the early years of the Indomitus Crusade he struggled to distinguish between his own personality and programmed responses.

How old are you? Are you a Firstborn?

You might still be young – perhaps as young as twenty or thirty – particularly if you’re a primaris marine. You might also be really old; Astartes don’t age like unmodified humans, so if you’re a Firstborn marine you could be over a hundred. In rare cases, you could even have a couple of centuries under your belt!

62 years, subjective Terran standard. Was recruited millennia ago to the Primaris project in Magna Macragge Civitas. 

Describe your physical appearance.

Where some marines have an almost sculptural set to their features, others look brutish or even repellent. And whilst all marines are capable of much the same physical feats, are you particularly tall, short, broad or slender?

Slightly shorter than average for a Primaris marine and of average build. Close-cropped brown hair greying at the temples. Pale skin. Deep facial scarring.

Describe your temperament.

What makes you happy? Excited? Angry? Ashamed? Melancholic? Proud?

Protecting those under his command and the wider citizenry give Varro great fulfillment. He is always excited to meet people from different chapters and/or organisations. Refusal to compromise while working towards common goals angers him. He is shamed by his inexperience outside his standard remit, but hasn’t found the time to remedy this. He takes immense pride in what both his primarch and his Chapter are trying to do, but the sheer scale of the Imperium's problems, and the entrenched nature of the Ecclesiarchy, can induce a deep melancholy that he endeavours to avoid or ignore.

What makes you laugh?

It is rumoured that even the starch-arsed Imperial Fists have a sense of humour. What is yours? Do you enjoy banter? Irony? Word play? A well-told anecdote?

Self-deprecation and exaggerated understatement.

What was your most legendary deed?

This might be the slaying of a daunting foe, rescuing a fellow servant of the Emperor, or maybe you peaked early, having achieved a heroic covert operation as a scout that you’ve never been able to rival as a battle-brother.

Varro's proudest achievement was resolving a labour dispute on Delta Thonicia IV without recourse to violence. The workers of Dig 572-rho were angry about servitor replacements, while management were unwilling to invest in improving safety. Varro dismissed the managing noble family but compensated them for the loss to offset the political fallout, then implored the Phratry Munitorus to work with the locals to implement superior water pumps and tunnel braces. Fearing similar management dismissals, other dig sites began paying for similar measures. It would take years for the overall situation to be resolved, but even before that year was out, industrial action was down 20% and yields were up 7%. Varro has learned that this is not an anecdote that plays well among marines from other Chapters.

What was your most brutal defeat?

No-one’s record is spotless. Describe a time you failed, despite your best efforts. Perhaps losing a friend in battle, being humiliated during your training, or allowing your feelings to cloud your judgement at a crucial moment.

Varro was overly rigid in his interpretation of the Codex Astartes during the Battle of Lieber’s Ridge, and didn’t take the initiative from the orks when an opportunity presented itself. Analysts concluded this missed opportunity extended the war by three weeks, and thus cost the lives of nineteen marines and several thousand PDF troops.


What is your armour’s history?

Your armour has been fitted to you by the chapter’s armourers, but that doesn’t mean all the pieces are new. Some parts may have been worn by great heroes, or even those who died an ignominious death. Your suit might also feature embellishments you have added yourself.

Varro’s left vambrace and helmet were both ruined during the Reclamation of Raxis Minor, and were replaced with the tragically unneeded components from recently-deceased Brother Gaius Fulminus. Varro likes to think using Gaius’ wargear brings him spiritually closer to the rank and file he’s never been a part of, and reminds him of an Astartes’ mortality.

Why were you selected for the Deathwatch?

Whilst some chapters consider it to be a great honour to select a marine for service in the Deathwatch, other chapters may consider it a tiresome obligation or even a way to effectively exile one of their own. Whether the marine in question understands this to be the case is of course another matter entirely.

Varro was hand-picked by Chapter Master Drusus as someone likely to comport himself well when dealing with marines of different Chapter cults. Since he's being sent to a Watch Fortress within the Cobalt Scions' home sector, his seniority within his chapter is also hoped to demonstrate a higher-than-expected commitment to the Deathwatch.

What does the Deathwatch mean to you?

It’s one thing to know why your chapter sent you, but what do you make of the chamber militant of the Ordo Xenos? How do you reconcile the fact that your duties may be done in contravention of the Codex Astartes, and recruits from chapters that may be rivals (or even enemies). Do you believe in the methods and purpose of the Deathwatch? Is joining this organisation a chance to gain great glory, or a chance to atone for past sins?

Varro's intimidated; he knows there is much he doesn’t know, and that every veteran he meets is likely to be as or more experienced than him, despite the rank he holds in his own Chapter.

What do you desire?

Are you motivated by a duty to protect the Imperium’s citizens, or by a desire for personal glory? Do you live for the thrill of taking extreme risks, or the challenge of an intelligent foe?

To make a name for the Cobalt Scions among the Deathwatch; to bring whatever knowledge he gains back to his chapter, and (somewhat cynically) to use that experience to advance his own career. Whether this results in him being hesitant to sacrifice his own life should it be required remains to be seen.


What do you hate?

Is it cowardice, incompetence, heresy, or weakness that boils your blood? Is it the foul taint of xenos, or the way the Ecclesiarchy view the Emperor as a god?

The needless destruction of civilian lives and infrastructure enrages Varro; he knows how much is involved in its creation. As such he harbours particular hatred for the mindless destructiveness of greenskins. Despite his personal ambitiousness, or perhaps because of it, he also hates selfish politicking rather than the dutiful pursuit of one's designated purpose.

What do you fear?

Space marines are psychologically conditioned to be unflinching in combat, and unwavering in laying down their lives. That having been said, fear is one of the most basic human instincts, and they are not immune to its touch. It might be a fear of being a lesser man than their contemporaries, or losing the approval of their brothers, or facing a foe against which there can be no victory. Whatever their fears are, they would not dare speak of them, and may even believe that they are the only astartes to know fear, whilst outwardly professing their imperviousness to it.

Varro fears that which he does not know; of being seen as too rigid or unimaginative; of failing to make other marines think well of the Cobalt Scions.

What is your demeanour?

Are you calculating? Gregarious? Hot-blooded? Studious? Taciturn? Pious? Stoic? Scornful? Ambitious? Proud? How do others perceive you? And how would you like to be perceived?

Varro is open and gregarious but is sanctimonious about his faith in the Cobalt Scions' methods. He would like to think others perceive him as humble and dutiful. He tells himself that he does everything out of service rather than personal ambition, even if he knows deep down that's not entirely true.


In Closing

It seems I've made a dutiful boy scout with a hammer and shield. It's a miracle I didn't call him Smash Captain America. I'm going to need to strike a balance between him being this upbeat space bro with him then losing his sh*t when confronted with the widespread devastation you always see when encountering Tyranids (our baddies for the mission). He'll be a fun counterpoint to my last Deathwatch character, the extremely dour Brother-Sergeant Elias. Plus he should be a good straight man to the crazier characters in the team.

Anyway, I hope the questions and prompts serve you well! If you have additional suggestions for questions, post them below, and I'll think about how they apply to Varro. And maybe retrospectively edit the article, who knows?

Two Shades of Black

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With our Deathwatch session coming up I've painted up another marine, this time for Jon (he's a keen gamer but isn't into the hobby side of things). He was built and painted according to Jon's choices, from the big honkin' Infernus heavy bolter to the choice of heraldry, face and skin tone.

Since every other player has made and painted their own guy, the paint styles across the squad vary hugely. As such, I took the opportunity to try painting the black armour in a different style to my own marine (featured last week). Today's post then is a sort of compare and contrast. I'm not sure that I prefer one or the other; apples and oranges, innit. That said, one is definitely faster. Or rather: less slow. Neither of these marines are of the "bang it out in an afternoon" variety. When you only have to paint two dudes it's a chance to put some extra love into it.

Let's start by explaining what the differences are in the black armour of the two minis, then I'll talk through the advantages and disadvantages of both methods.

One final note before we start: I used the same paint recipes on everything on these two minis except the blue-black armour. I went for a blue-black to help distinguish it from the rubber seal and cables.

Zenithal layering

This is the phrase I'll use to describe hammer dude's armour. Were it not for the edge highlight this would be a more realistic approach more common in historical modelling. The intention is to layer up brighter tones on the areas that would be hit by light from above. On the table, this has the effect of emphasising the shape of the mini and upping the visual contrast, but more subtly than the classic GW-style edge highlight. You can get a very similar effect very quickly using an airbrush; doing it with a brush just gives you a little more fine control at the (not inconsiderable) expense of time.

Last week's dude: all the layers.

Starting from a basecoat of Corvus Black, I slowly layered up through Citadel's Dark Reaper, then Thunderhawk Blue. This means slowly mixing brighter shades into my mix on the palette and applying many thin, quick layers. I did this at the start of the paint job so that I could be messy and expressive rather than super rigid, going back and forth with lighter and darker colours until the transitions were smooth(ish), and where I wanted them.

Once those initial layers were down, I then smoothed things out by using glazes of extremely thin Corvus Black, then Army Painter's matte black where there would be shadows. I also used Black Templar Contrast paint to line in some of the recesses, since it flows so nicely.

Once this had been done, I applied an edge highlight of Fenrisian Grey and applied battle damage, again using Fenrisian Grey and matte black. On reflection I think the damage would've looked better done in Thunderhawk Blue, maybe with a little grey thrown in, as I think the contrast might be distractingly high here, but whatever.

To finish, I put a later of Vallejo matte medium over the whole thing to get a consistent level of reflectiveness. This really helps tie the thing together. You can use Citadel's Lahmian Medium for this, but I find it's glossier and makes the work look more, well, plastic-y.

Edging for the Emperor

This is the more classic GW style of highlighting all the edges. I started with a basecoat of the Army Painter's matte black, then went WAY TOO FAR with the highlights. I started with Dark Reaper (fine) then highlighted with Thunderhawk Blue (also fine) then went for a final sharp highlight of Fenrisian Grey (WOAH TWINKLES, COOL YOUR PARTY JETS). Fenrisian Grey works for me on the Zenithal Layering method because the overall colour is lighter, but against a black basecoat it's f%&£$ing neon. Like, Tron neon, but with less Jeff Bridges and more disappointment. Insanely, this is the highlight tone recommended over black by the Citadel Colour App.

Following this setback, I used thin glazes of Corvus Black and then matte black to knock it back down. As experienced painters know, highlighting up then glazing back down is a good way to build up smoother-looking highlights. In my case it was done out of necessity, but it was definitely a page out of the Bob Ross book of happy little accidents.

I did reintroduce some Fenrisian Grey afterwards, but only on the absolute sharpest points, generally as a dot highlight. Much better.

Finally, as with Mr Hammer, I finished with a layer of Vallejo matte medium to get a consistent level of reflectiveness across the black. Without layers of brightness painted on, you can see the reflections much more clearly in photos.

So edgy.

Which is best?

Sure it's subjective preference, but there's definitely some things to bear in mind here. I do like the slightly more realistic feel of layering, but whether or not you do it by hand or by airbrush, you have to be really careful not to make mistakes on the subsequent stages, since they'll be very hard to fix.

Pros of Zenithal layering:
  • Looks less cartoony (I think).
  • More accurately reflects the way most black objects aren't inky absences of light.
Pros of Edging for the Emperor:
  • Easier to fix mistakes as you aren't dealing with repairing so many layers of carefully blended paint.
  • Photographs well, by which I mean, it's obvious how much work you've put in. With the zenithal thing it almost looks like it's just the lighting in the photo.
  • The choice for anyone keen to have the armour look as dark as possible.
  • Jeff Bridges will smile at you inscrutably, then throw a glowing frisbee at your face.

In Conclusion

Black's a right bugger to get right, and I'm not quite there yet. I was never satisfied with the Deathwatch dudes I did a while ago. These newer dudes pop more, but I think maybe I went too dark on Mr Large Gun and too light on Mr Hammer. Your mileage may vary. Hit me with any strong reactions in the comments.

House Rules for 40K

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40K's ninth edition is probably the best one yet, but has that stopped us wanting to tweak a few things? Obviously not. Admittedly there's not much we've changed, yet, but still it made sense to have everything in one place where our group could find it and make suggestions.

Of course this raises the question as to when one should have a house rule, and when one should just calm down and follow the rules. If you find yourself writing a giant list of amendments, one has to start wondering if one is even playing the right game. There's alternatives out there, foremost among which is the well-regarded Grimdark Future.

To my mind, house rules are there for when any of the following are happening:
  • Something is confusing.
  • The rules are causing units to not work like they ought to.
  • The rules are getting in the way of you doing something that is both fair and thematic.
Post-game sequence for Crusade games
Now that occasional Beard Bunker guest writer Tom has played a fair few Crusade games with Andy, he had some thoughts about how the post-game sequence is, in places, contradictory. He has therefore created the most substantial part of this document: a self contained, reordered post-game sequence. This also incorporates refinements to the way you generate scars and honours that keeps things random while also preventing non-thematic outcomes.

Experimental cover rules
One of my few substantial criticisms of 9e is the way the effectiveness of terrain varies wildly depending on how much armour you happen to be wearing. I have thus included an experimental rule that we're keen to playtest at some point which should, in theory, have the effect of halving the effectiveness of firing into cover in a way that is consistent regardless of who's shooting, and who's being hit.

This would of course have a massive impact on the way the game is played, hence it being experimental. I'll also need to finesse the wording to make it clear how the rules for the game's stealthier subfactions interact with it. When we try it out I'll be sure to write about it here, and likewise I'd be keen to hear from anyone else who tries it.

Amended unit profiles
There's plenty of under- or over-powered units in the game, but some examples are so egregious that I'm fine with upgrading them without even asking my opponents to pay more points. Foremost among these is the poor old Tau Hammerhead, whose effectiveness compared to comparable vehicles in other factions is outrageously poor. This thing's meant to be their MBT!

I've also pumped up the poor old Hydra flak tank, since it really shouldn't be outperformed in AA duties by almost any other weapon. Doing an average of two wounds to a T7 flyer is... basically pointless.

The future
I expect we'll keep adding to these rules over time. It's early days, so I haven't decided where or if we'll keep a changelog.

Where can I get these rules then?
To make it easy to update, we're keeping them in a Google Doc, which you can access by clicking the banner below. We're only going to have commenting available to members of our own group, but if you have thoughts, feedback or suggestions, you're welcome to leave them in the comments of this blog post and we'll address them!



Thoughts on Painting Small Scale Figures

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As previously promised I was going to get stuck into some 6mm fun with a Napoloenic starter set from Baccus6mm. It was a good set with rules, bases, scenery, and two opposing forces. Everything you need to get going. Seeing the figures for the first time in real life made it clear that the ‘normal’ 28mm styles of painting wasn’t going to work here. Something different would be required. So I went off a did my research. Many hours of videos, blogs, and pasting guides later, as well as actually getting stuck in and putting paint on the models, I’ve decided there are three important things to painting super tiny mens. 

1 - Know your subject matter:

Knowing what you are painting in detail before you start really helps a) figuring out what you are looking at and b) what is the most important details to pick out. I’ve spent many an hour reading up and generally researching the uniforms of the period. it’s part of the fun for me, turning hobby into history and history into hobby.

 French coats had red collars and cuffs but trying to pick out the collars would have made the faces and chests too messy, but picking out those cuffs suddenly transformed them into proper French infantry, as opposed to Portuguese infantry, who also wore blue coats but without the red cuffs. It’s those details that are important and are worth picking out. Also with the horses I picked out a few details in white such as socks and other white markings, a tiny touch but it adds a lot.

2 - Keep it simple:

Only pick out what is most important. Lots of fiddly details get lost at this scale or makes it look too messy. Remember that you have literally hundreds of figures per side and once they are all clustered together those details won’t matter. Pick out the key bits and be a little more impressionistic. For example, on the figures chest I didn’t bother painting them blue then painting the white strapping. I just went straight to white. adding the blue would have been pointless as it reduces the contrast on the white and would have just made things muddier. Only the sleeves got picked out in blue at that is enough to give the impression of blue coats. 

One of the reasons I did all the infantry in one batch was so I could see the massed effect coming together. Doing a single unit or two wouldn’t have given the same impression and I could have spent too long on each unit. Then it starts to feel like a much bigger and more daunting task than it needs to be. Plus doing 240 figures in a single batch is a new personal best (possibly even a new Bunker Record). 

All of this applies to the painting as well as the basing. instead of the sand/seal/paint etc I went straight to a brown basing flock, then some 2mm static grass (as this was the shortest I could find), and some micro tufts. Which I think works well.


3 - Contrast & Scale Colour:

Don’t bother with layers. It gets lost and is pretty pointless. Just jumped to the highest colour from the undercoat to create a stark contrast. I started from black, which might seem strange for 6mm but i just meant that everything was already pre-shaded then did a solid coat of paint. Most of the time it wasn’t much more than a single dot of paint going on. The only time I did more than one layer was on the horses. The flanks and legs where large enough areas that it really helped the model to pop having two stages.

Also due to scale colour things need to be lighter than you think. Little things simply don’t reflect as much light back at you as a big surface so you need to make those colours about 15%/20% lighter than it should be. In reality French uniforms where a dark indigo however painting 6mm models that actual colour resulted in them looking so close to black that you might as well not bother painting them. So I lightened the blue to the point where it worked for the scale.

 

Hopefully this will help anyone out there who is thinking about going small scale regardless of which gaming system takes your fancy. 

P.S. Just for fun, here is a size comparision between a 6mm stand, a 28mm stand from Perry Minitures, and a Rubric Marine, because I always have an agent of choas close to hand.

P.P.S. - I'm bad a photography, I'm worse at photography in 6mm


Modular Urban Board Project Log 4: quickly adding colour to the Sector Mechanicus

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In my ongoing mission to spruce up my 40K urban terrain, I've tarted up my Sector Mechanicus buildings. Previously I'd just got them to a basic semi-rusty metal, claiming I'd come back and pretty them up.

That was in (checks notes, groans) July 2019. Tom recently started politely pointing this out, because he is my hobby wife. A brush almost immediately appeared in my hand.

I considered various colours, but ultimately yellow always felt pretty industrial to me, and gives a good bright contrast. Admittedly with the lighting in that first pic above it looks extremely bright, but it's not so intense in person. Or in the other photos, for which I'd reduced the aperture.


Anyway back to painting. My worry was speed. Yellow traditionally needs a few layers, and these things are large. Given the slightly rusty and oily look of the metal, I didn't want the panels to look too pristine, which they would do with just a flat coat of paint.

Instead, using a large flat brush, I liberally stippled Averland Sunset within the middle of the yellow areas. This had the effect of dumping a higher thickness of paint onto the area without leaving streaky brush marks. I wouldn't do this with an actual model - you'd fill in the surface details - but for a big flat area of terrain like this? Perfect. Very quick, too. Also means the edge of the stippled area fades out a little, preventing any harsh lines going in to the next step.

That next step involves a good-size brush (about a size 2 or 3 should do) and going around the unpainted edges with somewhat thinned Averland Sunset. You want to work quickly to get a single smooth layer without brush marks in it. Thanks to the transparency of the paint, it looks like you've done a grimy recess shade around the edges of the yellow section. You'll probably need to do this twice to get the right coverage, but with the paint having been thinned and with Averland Sunset having the coverage of the gods, this is surprisingly fast work.

Now for the finishing touches in this highly basic recipe. I applied Reaper's Brown Liner to the gaps between the panels to add some contrast. Next, to add the streaks, I applied sporadic dots at the lower edges of the horizontal panels and immediately smudged them downward using my finger. Would enamels and cotton buds and white spirit look better? Yes. Was my method insanely fast? Also yes. A word of warning: as soon as you put a dot on the surface, you need to wipe with your finger immediately. I can't emphasise that enough. Doing two or three dots right next to each other then smudging them is fine, but don't apply dots to the whole section and then try and smudge them; you'll get horrible tidal stains.

There's one other detail worth mentioning, which is the screen on the terminal. This was also quick and simple: matte black, then pure white for the writing, then a green glaze, then gloss varnish. Done.


So that's that. For a driveby, two-evening process, I'm happy to have a basic result that immediately looks more lived in than it used to. I've seen people do some incredible and layered work on these kits around the web, but I don't have time for that. I needed results quickly so I can get back to the rest of the project.

Speaking of the rest of the project, I now have enough beige tiling to do a 4'x4' board even without using the big ol' chapel. I haven't blogged about it, since... well... there's only so much you can say about beige paving tiles. Rest assured there'll be more BEIGE in the future.



Modular Urban Board Project Log 5: Sector Mechanicus railings & cables

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The final step of the Sector Mechanicus elements of the urban project was getting around to the cables and hand rails that attach to the sides and undersides of the walkways. Glamorous? No. Visually effective? I think so, yes.

I'll confess I'm not wild about the handrail design, what with them having strong picket fence energy. I had no idea what the thought was behind them until I came to recognise that the overall approach to the Sector Mechanicus terrain is that of a nightmarish sci-fi Victorian train station. That doesn't knock me into actively loving the railings, but I can at least see the dark comedy charm, and they have grown on me since painting them because they really, really add some volume to the walkways. Here's a comparison shot:

Lazy up top, bizniz on the bottom half.

Adding the cables and railings really breaks up the plain silhouette of the walkways, and makes it all feel a lot more lived in. And also immediately turns the walkways into something you might want to put a mini on without worrying they'll just get shot by everyone. I'm just amazed I'd left this detail off for so long; I'd initially rushed to get the minimum viable product on the table, then was too lazy to return to it thereafter.


Painting was very simple; I followed my lazy rusty metal recipe:
  1. Spray Chaos Black
  2. Roughly drybrush/stipple a mid-brown (I used a keg of the old Calthan Brown you'd get in the scenery paint set, but any rusty brown will do). Deliberately vary the amount of coverage from patch to patch; you don't want it too uniform. This is mostly to knock the mini off being fully neutral.
  3. Drybrush Leadbelcher (technically I used Army Painter Gunmetal, but any dark silver is fine).
  4. Drybrush Necron Compound or some other light silver on the highest/most exposed edges.
  5. Use a drybrush to heavy stipple/drybrush Corvus Black over any cabling. This is quicker than using a normal brush and on scenery you don't have to worry about being heavy-handed with the coverage. This just means you get it done faster.
There's not much else to say; I'm pleased to have finished this stuff off, and even though I've done a very basic job on this stuff I think the sheer amount of texture means that it catches the light and is sufficiently visually interesting without needing a riot of colour. Don't get me wrong, if I had the time to do the beautiful paint jobs I've seen around the net I would, but sometimes you just need to get something done. And then line your dudes up on them so they can Wilhelm Scream off the side.


Cargo shorts, skater shoes, and a keg of German field grey

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Phobos armour: sleeker. Sneakier. JUST AS BRIGHTLY COLOURED. The first time GW put out a unit wearing Phobos armour left me decidedly confused. The Phobos-clad Reiver squad was depicted wearing bright blue heraldry so they didn't seem like stealth troops, but were instead... terror troops? I'm sorry, aren't marines terrifying by default?

It didn't help that the greaves made me think of cargo shorts and skater shoes. Those Reivers would love to help purge the galaxy of xenos, but sorry, they're too busy doing radical tricks in the nearest halfpipe.

It was only when the rest of the Phobos stuff dropped that my attitude started to soften. Ohhhhh, they're stealth troops, they've just been painted in bright colours because Flames Orkshop.

I started to imagine how these tacticool idiots would look if painted in more drab colours, and I liked what I was imagining. So much so, in fact, that I recently bought a box, built 5 Incursors (albeit without the Geordi LaCyclops visors) and painted up a test model.


Bit sneakier, huh? I'm not claiming I'm being original here; I've seen other people do it as well. I just had fun adapting the insignia established on the rest of my army and muting it somewhat. Arguably the big blue fist is still a reach, as is having any metal surfaces, but gimme a break. I'm trying to strike a balance between "sensible" and "looks good on the table."


The chapter badge background has been shifted from white to mid-grey, the bright company kneepad knocked back to a darker tone, and the squad markings on the right pauldron just became black numerals. I also avoided having any glowing lights anywhere; the eye lenses and big honkin' gun sights are both red glass instead.

The red knee pad means he's from the 3rd company, just like the rest of my Cobalt Scions army so far, and the number 3 is his squad number. Primaris marines can switch armour between deployments, although I imagine the 10th Company Vanguard are the Chapter's stealth specialists and really don't leave home in anything other than Phobos plate.


If you're curious, here's the step-by-step:
  1. Prime spray Mechancicus Standard Grey
  2. Basecoat Vallejo German Fieldgrey WWII (model colour no. 70.830)
  3. Basecoat black areas Citadel Contrast Black Templar
  4. Basecoat black areas Citadel Corvus Black (including squad number on right pauldron)
  5. Highlight black areas Citadel Eshin Grey
  6. Edge highlight black areas Citadel Dawnstone
  7. Dot highlight black areas Citadel Administratum Grey
  8. Recess shade/line in black areas with Citadel Contrast Black Templar
  9. Basecoat left pauldron Citadel Dawnstone
  10. Paint chapter icon with Citadel Macragge Blue
  11. Basecoat metal areas with Army Painter Gunmetal
  12. Shade metal areas with Citadel Agrax Earthshade
  13. Shade metal areas with Citadel Nuln Oil Gloss
  14. Highlight metal areas with Army Painter Shining Silver
  15. Basecoat left kneepad with Army Painter Chaotic Red
  16. Highlight left kneepad with Citadel Mephiston Red
  17. Add squad number to left kneepad with Citadel Dawnstone
  18. Black out lenses with Citadel Corvus Black
  19. Highlight lenses with Citadel Evil Sunz Scarlet
  20. Edge highlight lenses with Citadel Wild Rider Red
  21. Glaze lenses with Army Painter Chaotic Red
  22. Add white dot to eye lenses if desired
  23. Gloss varnish lenses
  24. Highlight and add chipping to armour with Vallejo Green Grey (model colour no. 70.886)
  25. Line in recesses of armour and chipping with Reaper's Brown Liner
  26. Add Army Painter Gunmetal to centre of particularly big areas of chipping
  27. Add Citadel Typhus Corrosion to boots/ankles
  28. Base with Citadel Stirland Battlemire texture paint
  29. Drybrush & rim base with Vallejo Game Colour Earth
  30. Drybrush base with Army Painter Skeleton Bone
  31. It's flockin time.
I think I went overboard on the chipping, but otherwise I'm pretty happy with how this looks. Now to paint the other 4 so he can get on a table and be... marginally less effective than my other troops units, but way more tacticool. And radical.
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